Begin by nutserting each hex hole on the actuator mount with x4 M6 stainless steel rivnuts.
Place lock in cut out of door. Ensure you're using the correct lock for the correct door as well as making sure all lock barrel numbers match. Add an actuator mount to the top two bolts and fasten with nylocs that are supplied with the latches. Ensure rubber seal is not pinched.
Fasten gas strut bolts to the doors as well as on the canopy/toolbox. Fasten with a M8 zinc nyloc nut. Push gas strut onto bolt ensuring the thinner end of the gas strut is attached to the canopy. Turn gas strut anti-clockwise till the bottom hole is facing inwards like so.
A service canopy includes 2 different strength gas struts. 400N for the rear door and 700N for the side doors. Please ensure the correct struts are used for the correct door.
Sillicone around all rivets holes for the hold down brackets. Rivet hold down bracket on using x4 ali sealed rivets. If a subfloor is included, watch that knowby before continuing with this step.
A toolbox will need 4 holes drilled out with a 5mm drill bit at the end of the toolbox for the antiluce plate. Toolboxes are identical meaning you will have to assign a passenger and driver side before drilling these holes. A canopy will already have these holes drilled out.
Only canopy and toolbox 7, 10's & 13's require antiluce plates for the sides to latch too. Sillicone like so and rivet on using ali sealed rivets.
Fasten the antiluce in to the top hole using a M12 zinc nyloc nut. Ensure antiluce is straight. Insert rubber button to bottom hole and rubber washer and o-ring around the antiluce like shown above. A 15x, 17x and service body will not have these antiluce plates.
Toolboxes include rear mounting brackets. Ensure over hang of bracket at the front of the toolbox and flush at the rear. You will need x4 stainless M8x20 button heads, spring washers, flat washers and loctite.
To fasten a barrel nut you will need an M6x12 stainless steel button head, x2 flat washers and a barrel nut which will be supplied by M2 Overland. Ensure there is a washer on each side of canopy and add loctite.
Fasten the barrel nut while ensuring that it sits as low in the slot as possible.
Sillicone rivet holes for door hinges like so. Ensure hinges on door are flicked out before going to rivet the door.
Line up door and rivet using stainless steel countersunk rivets. It is important that the correct rivets are used. Push gas strut onto the gas strut bolt in the door.
Feed pinchweld seal through gas struts and place at the bottom of the canopy as shown. Feed and push seal tightly all around the canopy.
Cut seal to the correct length making sure the two ends meet up neatly. The two ends of the seal always need to meet at the bottom of the canopy.
Using a 5mm drill but, drill out the botton two rivets at the front of the canopy/toolbox. Sillicone both holes and rivet on M2 logo using stainless steel dome head rivets. Do this to both doors making sure the logo is at the front of the canopy/toolbox.
For the lock covers push the rubber button in hole and push all the way down to make sure the flange is through the hole completely.
For the posts, ensure the arrows are at the top and opposite to one another. The 11mm holes must line up with one another as well. Rivet together using ali sealed rivets.
Insert a M6 stainless steel hex rivnut into each hex hole of the stiffener. Fasten using the rivnut gun. Please ensure the rivnut is facing the correct way as shown in the video above.
17x &15x canopies have lift-r brackets on the corners. Using x4 stainless M8x20 button heads and loctite, fasten them to the to the rear of the canopy. Slightly fasten each bolt a few times to ensure the bracket won’t pull out of shape and will fit evenly around the corner.
At the front of the 15x or 17x we use a different lift-r bracket. This bracket has a slot for the buffer which is supplied by M2 Overland. Insert the buffer into the bracket and use x2 countersunk ss M8x20 for the front and x2 ss M8x20 button heads for the side of the bracket.